Days 14 and 15 Francavilla Day 16 Francavilla to Finastra

I'm starting to feel human again.  It is so nice to see Bob and Ian.  They're such good friends and good company.  Yesterday we went to the beach for lunch and a paddle/wallow.  Tonight we're going to a local restaurant for pizza.  There's unlimited wine on tap, a pool and two dogs to keep us amused.  But even though this is one of my favourite places with two of my favourite people, we have miles to cycle and adventures to be had so tomorrow we are leaving.

view from our apartment.  Pretty

We are taking it easy with a 50 mile ride to a campsite in Fiastra and then 50 miles to Perugia on Monday.  We are then taking the train to Pisa.  We don't need an 'apposite sacche' for regional trains.  Allegedly. 

Or a Tourin' Shroud.  Sorry, Richard will get his coat.


Day 16 Francavilla to Finastra

We've left the comfort of casal dei fichi and are back on the road. The theme to the littlest hobo keeps going through my head.

leaving Francavilla

When we left it was 37 degrees and sunny. About 20 miles later the thunder storm we were expecting, hit. Having survived the roads of northern Italy we did not now want to die in an Italian storm so found refuge in a bus shelter (mainly plastic), put on every item of clothing we could find and I took off my shoes (metal cleats).

After 1/2 hour it had passed and we carried on with our journey.











I've done the climb up to Finastra many times but have always returned to Francavilla. This time we were to stay in a campsite by the lake (recurring theme no 1). One of the nicest so far. Quiet, beautiful surroundings and pizza. Is it possible to have too much of a good thing?

Lake Finastra

Day 13 Rimini to Francavilla d'Ete

We've done it.  We've cycled over 1000 miles (1073 to be precise) from Calais to Francavilla in 13 days (with a day and 1/2 rest day). We arrive with an enormous sense of relief and achievement.  I was determined to cycle all the way but now I can relax and let the train take the strain.  After a few days recovery.  

And we're here....

Casa dei Fichi

110 miles
12 average
35 max
9 hours riding

Day 12 somewhere in the mountains to Rimini

We will get to the coast no matter what.  And we did.  114 miles, 8 hours of riding to the shit hole that is Rimini.  We planned to stay in Riccione but couldn't quite manage the extra 5 miles down the coast.  The campsite was fine - it had pizza and wine - but it was next to another busy main road and populated with parrots and yapping dogs.  Richard described it as paying to be a refugee, which is a fairly accurate description.  But tomorrow will we be in Francavilla with a bed, pool and a gallon of wine. 

one of the many camp statues in Italy

114 miles (our longest day)
13.8 average
33.6 max
8.25 hours riding

Day 11 Cremona to Serramazzoni

We've gone off piste.  Instead of cycling along major roads towards the coast and then turning right to head towards Marche, we headed into the mountains.  It seemed like a good idea at the time until it started to get dark and we were at least 10 miles from the nearest campsite.  Richard in his best Italian fell on the mercy of the manager of a ristorante who allowed us to camp in her car park.  Its probably the best night's sleep we've had in a long time, especially after a very nice meal and consumption of a small amount of wine.

We revert to plan A (or B or C) tomorrow and head towards the coast.

95 miles
12.6 average
29 mph max
7 hrs 22 mins

Day 10 Lugano to Cremona

We are in Italy.

Cycling in Northern Italy has been more about ticking off the miles rather than taking in the sights.  I didn't see George Clooney in Como or a Stravidarius in Cremona.  We did cycle 100 miles without getting squashed by an Italian lorry so that's a bonus.

The main feature of the day was the heat.  Scorchio, scorchio, scorchio.  I've discovered that I'm not very good once the thermometer goes over 40 degrees.  It hit 45 degrees today.  Now that's hot.  I have the most ridiculous cycling tan which Richard has threatened to photograph and publish on the blog.  Luckily he doesn't know how to.

Writing the blog retrospectively I can't remember if today was the day of 3 pizzas.  It definitely involved at least one at the campsite in Cremona, and a litre of the local wine.

Strange places Italian campsites and this one seemed to be populated by single retired men with large wine guts.

We did what we were told, whatever that it

100 miles
14 average
32 max
7 hours riding

Day 9 Aquarossa to Lugano

We finally dragged ourselves away from Aquarossa and are very nearly in Italy.  A nice easy 1/2 day of riding with only one climb.  We're breaking ourselves in gently after the exertions of the Oberalp and locumagna.

Yet another lake

The campsite may be in a beautiful setting but it does have the M25 running next to it.  Its fine for an overnight stop but god knows why anyone would want to spend a holiday here.  Perhaps it's a pizzeria next door.  The German family next to us seem to be enjoying it.

We're now running a day late so may have to investigate train options after our stay in Marche.

50 miles

12.5 average

34 max

4 hours riding

Day 8 rest day in Aquarossa



Such a beautiful campsite



We are next to a cool and refreshing river and surrounded by mountains.  The most strenuous activity today has been using the washing machine.  And we visited Sean's chocolate factory, but that's another very long story.

Its going to be very, very difficult to leave this place.  I wouldn't be surprised if our journey to Italy is delayed by another day.

Oh well.

Day 7 Lucerne to Aquarossa

What a day. We began in Lucerne. So, so beautiful.

Then 50 miles up to hill to Andermatt to meet Sean.

on the road to Andermatt

Then another 48 miles including the Oberalp and Locomagno passes with the last 10 miles in the dark.  A total of 98 miles and I have never felt so tired.  At least I hit my top ever speed of 50 mph. And I thought I was taking it easy.

Tomorrow we do nothing

98 miles
10.2 average (it was hilly)
50.2 max (fast)
9 1/2 hours riding

Day 6 Porrentruy to Lucerne

We did this today, by far the hardest road climb I have done. I thought my legs were going to snap.

Then after 90 miles, 1 x large bowl of pasta, 1 x pizza, 1 x beer, 2 x glasses of wine (me) and 2 x pizzas, 3 x beer, 1 x glass of wine (Richard), 1 snapped pedal, 1 x bike shop we arrived in Lucerne with 5 mins to spare before the campsite closed.

Another epic day.

Day 7 we should finally meet up with Sean and Claire so that will mean more beer and wine.  And then we're going to have a day off

91 miles
11 average
39 max
8 hours riding

Day 5 Monthureux to Porrentruy



Mid morning coffee stop somewhere in le vosges



Today we entered Switzerland.  Just.  And we still haven't been asked for a passport.

The plan was to camp.  We stopped at a nice restaurant on the French/swiss border and ate another delicious meal. I had the local speciality of sausages, ham and salad with a hot cheese sauce.  It tasted much nicer than it sounds.  Richard has scallops.  Not sure how that can be local considering we must be at the farthest point from the sea in Europe.

The owner advised that the closest campsite was 10 miles away in the wrong direction.  He then phoned a few hotels for us and found space in one in the right direction just accross the border.  Throughout this trip so far everyone has been so kind and helpful.  It has restored my faith in human nature.  Basically people are nice.

We arrived at the hotel in the dark (this will be a recurring theme) to be greeted by the Swiss/German owner and his wife asking if we were the English couple which the French man phoned about.  He then seemed astonished that we were married, saying we were so young.  I like this man.

We showered, washed our clothes and went to bed.  Then the storm of all storms.  Thank God we weren't camping.

The next morning we chatted over breakfast with our genial host about the history of his lovely hotel.  He bought it as a house in 1985 from a German family who had owned it for 3 generations
It was then turned into restaurant and conference centre.  This didn't work out so it became a hotel. The owner is now 75 and wants to sell it.  I hope whoever does buy doesn't destroy the charm of this special place.

87 miles
12 mph average
36.7 max
7hrs 23 mins riding

Day 4 Ecalaron to Monthureux

The nicest campsite in the world and not a mosquito in sight.

I couldn't be happier.

The less said about yesterday's camping the better.  The mosquitos had a fine meal.  I had quiche lorraine and chips in the slightly grotty campsite bar with the French chavs.  No chavs here in fact no one else is here.

Today has been a fabulous day.  Glorious cycling including a 5k tow from a truck carrying straw.  We sat behind at a steady 18 mph.

85 miles
12.5 average
41 max.

Now wine and cheese.

Day 3 Laon to Eclaron

No photos today I'm afraid and not much to say apart from a nice Croque Madame in Reims

Tried different tactics. As there's much to do in the evening we decided to take it steady with lots of breaks. On the whole this worked except France becomes a ghost town at 3pm and we ran out of food and water. It seems le crisis has caused bars and shops to close down.  And not just for August.  Permanently.  So many of the towns which we cycled through were deserted.  Think tumbleweed blowing down the main street.

92 miles
12.8 mph average
36 mph average
7 hours

Day 2 Hodain - Laon

Tough day today. 95 miles into a headwind and in the words of Sean Kelly my left knee was hurting big time towards the end. Cycling through the First World War battlefields are always evocative and deeply moving. Even more so on a bicycle when the sheer vastness of France is spread all around. The photo is taken in Arras outside the station.

nice foxes

that's Richard

We did camp tonight and dined like kings from the campsite shop.  Tinned sweetcorn, crisps and beer.  Must do better tomorrow

95 miles
13.2 mph average
32.6 max
7 hours

Day 1 London to houdain



View from bedroom window



Not quite according to plan but not far. Cycled 58 miles to our planned destination but no campsite in sight so have checked into a hotel. Just had a lovely hot shower so I'm not complaining. Not too sure about the euro pop coming from the function room next door but after a few beers it's bound to sound much better.

58 miles
13 mph average
35 mph max
4.5 hours

We're off.....

We're starting from here....

(it doesn't look like this now)

And will be going here....

(it does look like this)

Ending up here...



In between we will see a lot of stuff like this...

and this...

but hopefully not too much of this...